Science
Making sense of shallow-water waves with advanced statistics
When ocean waves reach shallow water, their complex interactions can produce lower-frequency infragravity waves. These waves strongly affect, and are affected by, the shape of coastlines, linking them to erosion, sediment deposition and the degradation of coastal ice.
When ocean waves reach shallow water, their complex interactions can produce lower-frequency infragravity waves. These waves strongly affect, and are affected by, the shape of coastlines, linking them to erosion, sediment deposition and the degradation of coastal ice.
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